I am creating this tech article because I bought a used Kenne Bell supercharger that was in excellent condition, except for leaky seals. Since I am the type of person to tear something apart and ask questions later, I pulled the whole supercharger apart. Quite simple actually. I found the seal numbers and called Kenne Bell.
I asked if they sell parts for the Kenne Bell. The reply was yes. I proceded to provide them all my information. At the end of the conversation, they tell me to get these parts, I need to send my unit in to them for $699 and they will rebuild it. I told them I already looked the entire unit over, and the only damage I have is the seals. He refused to sell them to me and said it takes a special tool to take it apart, put it together, and 'time' it. I told him that I already had the item apart. Surprised, he then asked me if I knew how to time it and that it must be within a tolerance of .003 apart. The only adjustable thing in the supercharger is screw contact. In other words, he was saying I didn't have the mechanical ability to pull this off on my own. All I needed to know was the screw tolerances and he just told me. If you have rebuilt a carb or put a cam in, you can do this.

UPDATE: After completing this task, I have rebuilt several twin screws and found them to very similiar. I now have over 4,000 miles on my rebuild, no noise- in fact very quiet. I now suspect if you have any noise, it is an indication of problems and it is worth it to rebuild it soon. If you wait, more damage is done.

To start off, Kenne Bell has a good tech article that will help you diagnose the reason your supercharger is having problems to begin with. A link to this article can be found here:

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/Avoid_and_Analyze.pdf

Also, here are some specs. If viewers have contributions to this, let me know and I will try to keep this updated.

Kenne Bell Performance Products
10743 Bell Court
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730

website: www.kennebell.net

Opcon Twin Screw Autorotor charger manufactured for Whipple Industries

Max throttle body and spacer on a standard flow intake: 70mm
85% adiabatic effieciency
Kenne Bell part #'s- most have been discontinued.

TS-1000-5 5 psi unit
TS-1000-8 8 psi unit
TS-1000-11 11 psi unit

This applies to TS-1000 series Kenne Bell Superchargers:

Front snout seal Qty 1: 24mmx47mmx7mm --order from National Seal
Front case seals Qty 2: 35mmx45mmx7mm -- order from National Seal
Front case bearings: Qty 2: 6205 ABEC 3 koyo $9.11 each US Bearings
Rear case bearings: Qty 2: 6205 ABEC 3 koyo
Rear o-rings: Qty 2:
Snout front bearing: 6303 ABEC 3 koyo $3.99 Ebay
Snout rear bearing: 6204 ABEC 3 koyo

The secret recipe Kenne Bell rear grease: Easiest to locate: John Deere Multipurpose Extreme Duty Synthetic CXTY25744 $8.97

You must use an ABEC 3 or 'C3' rated bearing to handle the RPM.

Tools that will be needed:
Custom made or long T-handle 5mm allen wrench welded to a long shaft with a t-handle. See picture 5mm_t-wrench below.
Bearing puller and bearing press OR old crock pot/electric skillet and a freezer
Impact wrench
6mm allen 3/8 socket
3/8 torque wrench
3/8 rachet
Grease gun
Bearing packer- only used on 2 rear main bearings
Kenne Bell front pulley remover
qty 4 19/64 drill bit

I am starting with reassembly as I already had it apart before starting this.

Clean the main housing and the rear case. Check for wear.
Flush the old grease out of the zerks and housing.
Using #2 gasket tack, smear very narrow and thin layer across rear case.
See picture rearcase_1 below.
Check orientation and tap into place. Install 6mm head allen bolts torqing to 10lbs.
See picture rearcase_2 below.

Clean twin screws and all rear mounting hardware- note correct orientation for installation. Check twin screws for damage or contact.
Freeze rear bearings overnight. Upon reassembly, place twin screws in crock pot without the crock in it and heat on high. Use a bearing packer to pack rear bearings. The bearings should slide right into the screw assemblies. If you have trouble- find a socket that is similiar in size to the bearing and tap it in. Attach oring, outer grease cover, and spring clip. Slide both assemblies into housing and secure with homemade 5mm allen t-wrench. Slide steel spacer over front of both twin screws.

See picture twinscrew_bolts below.

Clean front mounting hardware. Using #2 gasket tack, smear very narrow and thin layer across front of case. Tap front mounting plate in place. Secure temporarily with bolts. You need these in place for timing the gears.

See picture top_cover_twinscrew below.

Install seals. It is difficult to install the seals since they are installed backwards. I used an old bearing race as it matched right up. Tap bearings into front mounting plate. Install small gear onto reverse thread shaft. Install gear arbor. The clearance between the rotors is .003 (inches). This is the thickness of a 20lb piece of good quality copy paper. Tear a 1" x 2" picece of paper and slide it over the top of the male screw. The goal is to achieve have this piece of paper establishing clearance inside the screw at the same time the small front gear has the two visible 19/64 holes in a horizontal position. Once this has happened, slide the large gear onto arbor and line up 19/64 pin holes in a vertical line. Now slide the gear onto the shaft while trying to achieve a vertical position. Using tracing paper, trace the vertical holes and drill these out of a 2"x4". Drill larger 3/4 holes in the center so that you can use an impact wrench to tighten. Remember- the smaller gear is reverse thread. Install 19/64 drill bits through the 2x4 and into the gears. This will hold the screws stationary as you tighten. Double check the tightness by torquing to 75lbs. Again, a reminder that the small gear is reverse thread. Assemble the front arbor in place and install the 6 bolts. Install green coupler. Remove piece of paper. Turn the assembly over by hand. You should not hear any noises from the twin screws. If you hear noises, you either have srew/case damage that you missed or the clearance is not set right.

Using #2 gasket tack, smear thin layer on front case and assemble. Tighten bolts to 8lbs.

Snout:
Freeze snout bearings and shaft overnight. Heat snout in the crock pot. Tap front bearing onto shaft. Place into front of snout and tap into place with large socket. Install rear bearing into place with large socket. Install small spacer, o-ring, grease seal, and c-clip. Install alluminum drive coupler and bolt. Do not torque just yet.

Install front spacer. Prelube inner part of front oil seal. Smear a thin layer of #2 gasket tack around the outer edge of the seal. Tap into place. Install front pulley and pulley bolt. Torque to 35 lbs using torque wrench on the rear bolt and Kenne Bell pulley remover for the front.

Reinstall front snout with a thin layer of gasket tack. Torque to 6-8lbs.

Test spin the entire unit by hand. You should not hear any rubbing or scrapping noises. If you do, disassemble and inspect as something is wrong!

After it is installed on the car, do not forget to put oil in it and change it after 100 miles to be sure there is not any debris from the rebuild still floating around. Don't overfill it!

Your done! If you made it this far, congratulations and good job!

Please let me know if you find mistakes or omittions. Also let me know if this works for other models and I will update the information to include this.

If you run into trouble, contact me by using information in my signature.